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RELIGIOUS ITINERARY: THE WAY OF FAITH
AMONG THE CATHEDRAL OF AVOLA AND THE CHURCH OF POZZALLO

The church has always been the center of aggregation of the Christian peoples, especially in the smaller countries, where the communities used to gather together for the festivities addressed to the patron saint of the place. Knowing the major churches of the towns also means understanding the historical - cultural evolution of their inhabitants. The Mother Church of Avola is dedicated to San Sebastiano. It was built immediately after the disastrous earthquake of 1693. High over 50 meters for 30 meters of depth, it has three entrances corresponding to the three naves, of which the central one is the largest. The side aisles are formed by four side arches and as many altars. The Patron Saint of Avola is instead the virgin and martyr Santa Venera, for whom every year on the last Sunday of July a solemn celebration is celebrated. And eight days later, the simulacrum of the Saint, just as it wants an ancient religious tradition - seafaring, is carried on board a boat for a procession in the sea, followed by many sailors, fishermen and faithful. The procession touches the beaches and landings of Avola, in a blaze of joy and mystical and religious solemnity. The most important place of worship in the city of Noto is the Basilica of San Nicolò di Mira. Built also after the earthquake of 1693, it is made up entirely of blocks of soft limestone, of a splendid pink color, and is located on top of a majestic four-flight staircase. In 1996, a disastrous collapse razed the central nave, the right one and part of the dome. After 11 years of work, the cathedral was returned to the city in all its magnificent splendor. The interior, with a Latin cross, houses a precious 16th century silver ark, containing the remains of the Patron Saint of the city and the Diocese of Noto: Corrado Gonfalonieri. Every year in August this silver urn is carried in procession from the Cathedral of Noto to the Hermitage of the Patron, located in the small village of San Corrado Fuori Le Mura (a few kilometers northwest of Noto). To see, after two weeks of veneration, the evocative procession at night for the return of the remains in the Cathedral of San Nicolò. Consecrated to San Bartolomeo, the mother church of Ispica dominates the upper part of the Piazza dell'Unità d'Italia. It was built starting in 1750 by Don Antonio Li Favi, and its facade is characterized by late baroque and classical elements. The major religious festivals in Ispica are linked to the two most sacred moments of Catholic and Christian life: Easter and Christmas. During the Holy Week the whole city moves in processions and "Via Crucis" also towards Cava Ispica, inside which there is the small church of Santa Maria la Cava, dug into the rock. Evocative and unique also the nativity scene that every year at Christmas is organized in the spectacular Parco Forza della Cava. On the main square of the town of Pachino is the Mother Church, consecrated to the SS. Crucifix. It was built by the Marquises of Starrabba, owners of the nearby fiefdom Scibini and founders of the city. Work on the construction of the church began in 1970. It has a façade with two superimposed orders and two small bell towers. Magnificent bronze door made in 1968 by the sculptor Biasi. The celebrations in honor of the patroness, Our Lady of the Assumption, are held every year on August 15th, between solemn celebrations, processions and torchlight processions that also involve the neighboring maritime villages such as Marzamemi. The most recent of all the churches in the Terre dei due Mari is the one dedicated to San Gaetano, in the small town of Portopalo di Capo Passero. Built starting in 1927, it has a simple and not too adorned appearance, suitable for a seaside village. Made entirely of stone and inaugurated in 1931, it suffered a devastating fire in 2012 that destroyed the entire roof of the apse (made of cane and plaster), part of the nave roof and the sacristy, as well as significantly damage the chapel of the Eucharist.The restoration work was completed in November 2014. On the top of the bell tower, a venerable swordfish has become the symbol of the town. The celebrations of the Patron Saint recur on August 7, with a procession through the streets of the town. In the following days regattas are organized between local sailors, competitions and popular games. Consecrated to the Madonna del Rosario is the mother church of Pozzallo, built starting in 1876 by the will of the Reverend Vincenzo Ferreri and completed in 1891. The church (Latin cross) is made up of three naves, separated by a series of squared columns. The statue of the Madonna, by Valente Assenza, is located in the apse, on the sides of which, two side chapels contain the Santissimo and a statue of the Crucifix. The celebrations in honor of Our Lady of the Rosary occur on October 7: the liturgical program with processions and solemn celebrations is also accompanied by recreational and popular programs that involve all citizens. On the main square of the town of Pachino is the Mother Church, consecrated to the Holy Crucifix. It was built by the Marquises of Starrabba, owners of the nearby fiefdom Scibini and founders of the city. Work on the construction of the church began in 1970. It has a façade with two superimposed orders and two small bell towers. Magni co the bronze door built in 1968 by the sculptor Biasi. The celebrations in honor of the patroness, Our Lady of the Assumption, are held every year on the 15th of August, between solemn celebrations, processions and accolades that also involve the small maritime villages like Marzamemi. The most recent of all the churches in the Terre dei due Mari is the one dedicated to San Gaetano, in the small town of Portopalo di Capo Passero. Edi cata starting from 1927, has a simple appearance and not too adorned, suitable for a seaside village. Made entirely of stone and inaugurated in 1931, it suffered a devastating fire in 2012 that destroyed the entire roof of the apse (made of cane and plaster), part of the nave roof and the sacristy, as well as significantly damage the chapel of the Eucharist. The restoration work was completed in November 2014. On the top of the bell tower, a venerable swordfish has become the symbol of the town. The celebrations of the Patron Saint recur on August 7, with a procession through the streets of the town. In the following days regattas are organized between local sailors, competitions and popular games.

                                                                                                                                                                                        Source GAC dei due mari

CULTURAL ITINERARY: UNESCO
BETWEEN NIGHT AND POZZALLO.

The Terre dei due Mari hosts two important recognitions of Unesco: the one linked to the Baroque sites of the Val di Noto, where the towns rebuilt after the disastrous earthquake of 1693 preserve admirable examples of chiselling art and that linked to the Mediterranean Diet, included as Intangible Heritage Unesco in 2010. The Unesco itinerary revolves around the Cathedral of Noto, an undisputed example of Baroque art but above all a symbol of strength, tenacity, courage and stubbornness of a people that does not surrender to fate but reacts, fights and rebuilds, still more firmly than before. This splendid example of culture, history and art comes from a set of knowledge, practices and traditions that are also found in the way of eating typical of the Mediterranean diet. A food style characterized by a nutritional model that has remained constant over time, inextricably linked to the territory, to agricultural production, crops, harvesting, fishing, breeding, conservation, transformation, preparation and consumption of food. The territory between Avola and Pozzallo contains some of the exclusive products of the Mediterranean Diet. Olive oil, vegetables, fish, fresh and dried fruit are foods rich in beneficial substances, Omega3, vitamins necessary for development and physiological growth at all ages. Products that are part of the Sicilian food heritage, but even more so than the typical way of eating of the population of this territory. Ispica produces one of the most renowned carrots of Italy: the Novella di Ispica PGI (protected geographical indication). The production of this root, a mine of minerals and vitamins, runs from February to June. Pachino is the kingdom of tomato. Among the many varieties, the most famous and present on the international markets is the Pachino Cherry IGP, whose production is extended to a good part of the year. In Avola there are the most valuable almond cultivars in the world. The flowering (a real show!) Is limited to a few days at the end of winter, while the harvest takes place between mid-August and September. Among the most prized varieties, Avola Almond is the most sought after by confectionery and pastry of the highest quality. In Portopalo di Capo Passero and in Pozzallo, the fishermen's seaman makes the fish market truly fascinating. Mediterranean fish, mainly blue fish, is the main product of fish, rich in nutritional properties but above all mineral salts and Omega3. The extraordinary quality / price ratio makes blue fish the most consumed by the islanders. The most fished varieties in these areas are: sardine, spatula, alalunga, alletterato, lampuga, swordfish and tuna. Blue fish is a versatile product that adapts to a variety of recipes: from simple fishermen to more elaborate chefs. Since it can not be bred (with the exception of tuna), it is always wild, caught in the open sea and available all year round. Finally we return to the place where the itinerary started: the Cathedral of Noto. Sitting in front of this extraordinary monument, you can enjoy the nectar of the Gods sipping a sweet Moscato di Noto doc.

Source GAC dei due mari

HISTORICAL ITINERARY: GUARD TOWERS, FORTRESSES AND HEADLIGHTS
BETWEEN TORRE SVEVA (VENDICARI) AND TORRE CABRERA (POZZALLO)

The towers that existed along the coastline of the Terre dei due Mari played a fundamental role. Their strategic position made it a unique and privileged point of sight. All the coastline and the sea facing were in sight, in defense of pirate raids. Guard towers, forts, chargers, were solid structures built to withstand external attacks and to last. Thanks to this some of them have been perfectly preserved, and today they tell us stories and legends of a mythical past. Inside the Vendicari Reserve, as if to protect the territory behind it, the Sveva Tower shows off. Presumably built around the XIII century AD, the tower would have had the temporary function of a loader, a deposit of foodstuffs arriving or leaving the small port of Vendicari. Known in fact, according to a document dated 1396, he was allowed to market foodstuffs through the airport of the current nature reserve. The tower looks like a large building, with a rectangular plan, composed of large blocks of limestone. On the top the corners have corbels, added later, probably built to hold the balconies to accommodate the lookouts, cannons or boxes that allowed the protective function of the tower. In the Belvedere area of ​​Torre Fano, in the territory of Pachino, the remains of a tower for signaling and controlling the sea are still visible, one of the most ancient watchtowers, probably dated around 700 BC. In this period, in fact, Syracuse, the capital of Magna Graecia, had control of the entire sea facing the territories of its relevance. Torre Fano was used as a guide for sailors who dubbed the two seas, but also for the control of the sea against Punic raids. It maintained this function also during the Roman and Byzantine period. A system of watchtowers was then organized from the Norman period. Torre Fano, given its unique position (at the southernmost tip of Sicily), maintained its function for many centuries. On the island of Capo Passero, there is a valuable work of military architecture, built in the early 1600s, the Royal Spanish Fortress. The construction of this defensive structure lasted for about 35 years, lengthy due to changes resulting from changes in power, completions and valuable enrichments. He was always garrisoned by military garrisons, all of Spanish nationality, apart from the Italian barber and chaplain. The fort served as a bulwark to defend the entire coast against the incursions of the Ottomans for over two centuries, without ever being conquered. Resisted unscathed even to the disastrous earthquake of 11 January 1693, an earthquake that destroyed many towns in the Val di Noto. From 1871, with the construction of a small lighthouse, was guarded by the Navy for the night lighting of the same. Currently, being equipped with automatic ignition, the guardian service is no longer active. The southernmost lighthouse in Europe is that of the Isola delle Correnti. A small island, in the shape of a drop, joined to the mainland by an isthmus that alternates its "presences" as a function of tides and storms. The island of the two Seas is the one that stands at the center of all the passages, currents and movements between the Ionian and the Mediterranean. Outstanding for its geographical position is the terminal point, opposite to Trieste, of the "Path of Italy": one of the longest trekking routes in the world (about 5,500 km). Up until a few decades ago, the lighthouse keeper lived with his family on the island. In addition to the guardian's house, a military structure, managed until recently by the Navy, is still visible. Going back to the hinterland in the territory of Pachino, it is possible to visit Torre Xibini. It was built at the end of 1400 by the baron owner of the surrounding feuds, both for his personal prestige and to defend the lands and crops from pirate raids. Of the ancient tower remains the square-shaped base and the eastern side of the walls, just over 10 meters high. The coat of arms of the family, sculpted in limestone and an inscription in Latin, is visible on the façade. We admire the most impressive monument in Pozzallo: it is Torre Cabrera. This too was a watchtower, built by King Alfonzo V of Aragon in the early fifteenth century. The tower was placed to defend the loader: a complex of warehouses of strategic importance, positioned on the coast and complete with slides and jetties for boarding goods on sailing ships (especially wheat, produced in huge quantities in the county of Modica). This site, in terms of importance and value, was the second in Sicily. The Torre Cabrera was the central fulcrum from which the entire settlement of Pozzallo developed and today is a national monument and symbol of the city.

Source GAC dei due mari

SNORKELING ITINERARY: AMONG THE ROCKY FUNDS

BETWEEN CAPONEGRO (AVOLA) AND CIRICA (ISPICA)

There are over 90 kilometers of coastline of the Terre dei due Mari. From Avola to Pozzallo to the incredible beaches of fine sand alternate beautiful rocky coasts, with high cliffs that rise above the sea. They often hide caves and rock coves, whose waters are blue and limpid. It is no coincidence, in fact, that lovers of "snorkeling" seek places away from sands and fluvial contributions, because being devoid of sandy suspension the waters of the sea are also more clear and clean, thus ensuring excellent visibility. These places become the perfect destination to explore small rocks and small caves, admiring submerged flora and fauna without necessarily being experienced divers. The places designated for snorkeling are numerous and scattered throughout the coast.

CAPONEGRO
Beautiful seaside resort north-east of Avola. A splendid rocky inlet, with a small iron ladder that facilitates entry into the water. Large rocky blocks also allow the support of the equipment during the dressing. Non-sandy seabed, rich in rocks encrusted with balanidae, limpets and sea urchins, fauna rich in crustaceans (above all crabs) and small fish of the coast. It is not uncommon to come across octopuses and morays hidden among rocks.

VENDICARI 
The rocky coast of the Vendicari Wildlife Oasis can only be reached from the main access doors of the Reserve. Bathing is not prohibited, but fishing does. Masks and fins are allowed but not equipped with knives, compressed air guns or rubber bands. Only pure snorkeling. The protected area extends to the whole area above and below the coast. The sea of ​​Vendicari is clear and clean. In the most sandy part of the seabed there is an incredible prairie of Posidonia Oceanica, one of the largest in the Mediterranean, covering an area of ​​almost 30 square kilometers. A real oxygen lung for these waters, it acts as a protection and nourishment for many animal species that live there: fish, molluscs, bivalves (among which the very rare "Pinna Nobilis") and the solitary seahorse.

ISLAND OF CAPOPASSERO 
Just outside the center of Portopalo, from a small beach under the Terrace of the two Seas, you can head to the Island of Capo Passero, only if equipped with good fins. Until recently, the island was joined to the mainland by a sandy isthmus. The whole coast under the island is jagged and full of submerged caves. Where the waters of the sea break on the rocks and get oxygen, it is not uncommon to come across shoals of bream, bass, sole and some grouper.

CIRICA 
After passing Porto Ulisse, in the territory of Ispica, we arrive at the Marza area. Here the breakwaters have created little beaches, leaving some caves dry but allowing them to arrive at the large flagships. The sea of ​​this coast is among the bluest and clearest in the Mediterranean. The Secche di Circe, a few hundred meters from the coast, have been the cause of incredible shipwrecks in the past, so it is not rare to come across archaeological finds so encrusted with time that they have completely merged with the submerged natural heritage. Among green algae, false coral and sponges furtively hide moray eels, octopus, bream and needlefish. While among the rocks the rockfish are camouflaged in their colorful liveries.

Source GAC dei due mari

ITINERARY THE ROUTE OF THE TUNA

BORGO DI MARZAMEMI

A subtle "fil rouge", red like those tuna that for over a thousand years return in the small bay of Marzamemi, tells the whole story of this village. Marsa al Hamen is the most characteristic seaside village of this territory and keeps intact some characteristics of the sea country, buildings and artefacts that still preserve the flavor of history and of the fish and artisanal evolution. At Marzamemi we still work tuna, always, with the same patience, care and loving dedication that has been handed down for generations. at the beginning of 1600 the Prince of Villadorata, having already acquired land and buildings, gave a vital impulse to the area: building the whole village around the opificio, extending the warehouses, creating houses for fishermen, the church and its enchanting palace noble. From that moment, Marzamemi began to teem with artisan life: sailors, fishermen, rope makers, "caulkers" (those who repaired boats used for fishing), gutters, salters, "horsemen" (fishmongers on carriages pulled by big horses). A primordial network united these activities in a unique and absolutely necessary way: one was propedeutic to the other, everything took place in absolutely perfect times and ways. Even today Marzamemi preserves intact the charm and memory of that artisan life and that synergy. Visiting this village is a real step back in time: everything seems a snapshot of the moment of greater prestige and comfort of the place. The fishing village is developed around the Piazza Regina Margherita, which overlooks the Prince's Palace of Villadorata. To connect the ancient church of San Francesco di Paola to the palace is an archway, which conveyed rainwater coming from the collection channels installed on the noble prospectus in two large cisterns lateral to the church itself. On the square, but also on an Arabian courtyard behind, there are the Casette dei Pescatori. Small, tidy and essential, characterized by two doors: one towards the sea, the other towards the village, so as to never interrupt the connection between life on the ground and that between the waves. From a balcony of the building, the Prince, owner of the tonnara, could look out onto the Loggia where the tuna was worked, check the Scieri (the boats useful for tuna fishing) just returned with their precious cargo. The skiers, entering the village from Porto Piccolo, were towed to the ground and moored with the part of the slide against the Balata (made of slabs of smooth limestone) in order to unload, by a hook, the freshly caught tuna. Slippery and sloping, the Balata served to make it easier to drag the tuna down to the Loggia: here the tunas underwent the first part of the process, before being hung for 24 hours in the Camperia. This was the tuna fishery factory, recognizable by its tall four-sided smokestack. The whole building complex was called Floating and included also the accommodation for the employees, the shelter premises for the "scieri" during the winter period, the warehouses for the equipment, the nets and the other tools for fishing and the processing rooms and the storage of the catch. This corner of artisanal fishing and processing and trading of fish products has remained active, despite periods of recession (especially during the two world wars). In confirmation of this, even today in Marzamemi there are various tuna processing factories, which easily perpetuate the ancient maritime and fish tradition, as it has been handed down from the most ancient generations.

Source GAC dei due mari

INDUSTRIAL ARCHAEOLOGICAL ITINERARY: LE TONNARE
BETWEEN TONNARA OF AVOLA AND TONNARA OF PORTOPALO OF C.P.

Tuna: a symbol of opulence and hard work. Symbol of fear, anger and joy. The tuna, the red one of Sicily, was the most sought after prey: the one with the most firm meat, with the bags full of eggs, with the biggest heart. It was the fish from which the population that lived in the villages of the Tonnara gained sustenance and life. Tuna fishing in Sicily has very ancient origins, above all the slaughter. The first to teach the techniques of capture were the Arabs, followed by the Spaniards. In southeastern Sicily, just in the Terre dei due Mari, until the 1960s many Tonnare were produced. Spectacular processing factories, located at sea and near brackish areas. Before Florio invented tuna in olive oil, the best way to preserve this extraordinary fish was salt. That is why almost all the tuna processing plants were built in the areas of sea salt production, near the salt pans or brackish lakes. The tuna fishermen of Vendicari, Marzamemi and Portopalo had their salt pans nearby. The tuna processing industry now no longer needs these places, which have now become treasure chests of memory and tradition, admirable examples of industrial archeology. The northernmost of the traps of this route is that of Avola, located at the entrance of the Marina. Its position was strategic, to facilitate the transport of tuna from boats to the Malfaraggio (rooms used for warehouses and tuna processing). The tonnara also housed the seasonal home of the owner, who during the summer also became a "tonnarota". Very little remains of the ancient tonnara: the perimeter walls, the large chimney and part of the warehouses. A visit is a must: especially at dawn, when the ancient walls of the factory are colored with gold. Inside the Vendicari Wildlife Oasis, it is possible to admire another tonnara. Excellently restored, it is offered to visitors' eyes almost like an open book. It was a tonnara back, dedicated to fishing tuna that were part of the open sea after the season of love. The tonnara of Vendicari, also called Bafutu, had its maximum splendor at the beginning of the last century, when the backwaters were also given in concession to a nobleman from Avola, who restored all the eighteenth-century buildings of the tonnara to resume processing. With the disembarkation of the allies in Sicily, during the Second World War, the activity of the tonnara was interrupted, today it has become the symbol of the Vendicari reserve. The most ancient tonnara of all south-eastern Sicily is that of Marzamemi. The first settlements date back to the year one thousand by the hands of the Arabs, who established the first settlements that later became the seaside village. The Loggia, once a shelter for returning boats, is today a perfectly restored environment. All warehouses and processing rooms are visible from the great Balata. In Marzamemi, the seafaring life has never stopped. Tuna processing continues in several modern factories, and those who visit them perceive that the "Taste of History" has remained unchanged here. The last tuna processing plant is located in Portopalo di Capo Passero. Its particular architecture is particularly appreciable from the sea: the processing plant and the owner's house were and still are located on a rocky coast about 40 meters above sea level. Also this was a return trap, the last before returning to the open sea. So the tuna survived to other tuna arrived tired and lean, their meat was firm and low in fat, and having already spawned their capture did not cause any damage to reproduction.

Source GAC dei due mari

Page 8 of 20

About Us

The Pro Loco Marzamemi is a voluntary association, of a privatistic nature, non-profit, with a value of public social utility, and with relevance of public interest.

 

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